Our experience on the roads in the west of Etosha persuaded us not to drive an estimated 5 hours through Etosha to our next destination of Mokuti Lodge on the east of the pan, but to drive back around via Otjiwarongo. It was a good call as it's easy driving on straight, comfortable roads, and takes the same time.

Mokuti Lodge was a next level up. A stunning lodge with beautiful grounds and golf carts to your rooms. We enjoyed the grounds with banded mongoose (mongeese?), squirrels and bontebok mowing the lawn.

The game drive in the morning was amazing. We learnt that there is a Namibian species of our impala, called a black-faced impala which is bigger and darker (see image in gallery below). Our guide Fabio knew his birds and we ticked off a few more 'lifers'. A magnificent bull elephant in musk visiting a waterhole was a treat.